journey home ii OR : can we pretend that airplanes in the night sky are shooting stars, i could really use a wish right now, wish right now

Liveish blog: PART TWO

6:00 am wake up! WE MIGHT BE GETTING ON A PLANE TODAY
7:45 am well my flight is still happening, says BAA & Delta.com. SO NERVOUS!
8:15 am my cabdriver is hitting on me. i don't have the emotional capacity for this
8:44 am WELCOME BACK TO HEATHROW HELL, there are people still sleeping here
9:15 am Heathrow terminal 4 why are you complicated? This has been way more difficult to handle than it could have been
9:45 am hello, security // the feeling of being the whitest person in the airport today
10:00 am i don't have a gate until 11:20. This is the face of apprehension re: getting back to the us

10:08 am FLIGHT STATUS CHECK

10:20 am amazing things in the duty-free shop
10:38 am i am sitting at a starbucks drinking a (festive) peppermint mocha, because i am going back to America, and god dammit it's christmas.
11:30 am We still don't have a gate assigned yet. Going to all the duty-free shops and start getting free samples of baileys = coping mechanism
12:05 pm Called to the desk at the gate. Mystified; given a new ticket. But I already have one...
12:40 pm Boarding! OH LOOK I'VE BEEN UPGRADED TO BUSINESS ELITE. Have a glass of champagne, it's complimentary.
1:00 pm TAKE OFF / THIS PLANE IS ACTUALLY GOING SOMEWHERE
2:00 pm The on-flight lunch is a proper UK Christmas dinner- turkey and potatoes and a little thing of cranberry sauce.
2:15 pm While we serve christmas dinner, please turn your attentions to the tvs, where we are now showing How The Grinch Stole Christmas (1966, boris karloff)
2:45 pm HAVE MORE WINE it's still complimentary, up here in business elite class
3:30 pm and now for a nap
4:45 pm things to watch: 30 Rock, Parks & Recreation, Big Bang Theory, Inception ...
Sometime between 6:45-7:45pm TIME CHANGE
3:15 pm we are landing! an hour early! HELLO NYC

4:30 pm FAMILY MEMBER ROULETTE, who is meeting me here? The last i heard was "somebody will meet you there"
4:45 pm It's my uncle! off to his house in CT, where I will meet my parents for dinner there, then back home
7:30pm WHAT DO YOU MEAN IT'S NOT MIDNIGHT
9:30pm home! alive! inform everyone! go to sleep!

I am now back in new england, where a full-on blizzard, featuring upwards of 2+ feet of snow, is hitting us. My dad told me this morning that the equivalent of my flight from London to NYC today was canceled. Christ on a bicycle, I am glad to be home.

alone in kyoto

"This wasn’t a strange place, it was a new one." --Paulo Coehlo

The thing about London is that it feels instantly familiar, like i've been here forever. I realize how blasphemous this is to say, but London feels like America. Maybe it's because I can understand everybody without difficulty (ahem, SCOTLAND), and because it is MASSIVE - though I'm in London it takes about an hour to get into Central London. The trains and the underground feel instantly familiar too- like I could be in Boston or New York or San Francisco. (I wonder if all trains everywhere make everyone feel the same.)

Either way, Windsor's very self sufficient, and I've been living in the UK long enough to recognize stores and stuff, which is good; it's a lot less scary than it could be - I was very nervous about getting stranded in Paris next, to be honest. We've got a Wetherspoon's here, which does cheap food; there's a book store and a couple WH Smiths, a Boots, a H&M, a Marks & Spencers and a Waitrose (which looks EXACTLY like an American supermarket). So maybe I'm in bizzaro America. I've always felt like London was its own planet anyway.

I've been trying to enjoy myself while I'm here; it's an adventure, right? I went in to Central London on Monday to do tourist things in six hours, assuming that I was going to Paris the next day; on Tuesday I met a friend of mine who is a local Londoner for a film and few drinks (it was good to see a familiar face after all of this.) Today I think I might go back in and look around some more.

Luckily I read as about 25-26 rather than 22, which is working in my favor while I'm here; and I do use Scottish words in an American accent, which does throw people off. But So really, all things considered, I think I'm doing okay. In fact I'm very grateful to have not been at Heathrow Hell since Saturday; here I have a bed and a shower and I have all my luggage - I have not been sleeping in a departure lounge under tinfoil.
But I do want to go home. I just want to be back on my continent. I'm flying from London to New York City on Christmas day - this is my third flight booked, so I really hope it actually happens. Christmas here is sort of like Christmas + Thanksgiving rolled into one, so three of my friends have called and threatened me with bodily harm if I spend Christmas alone. All I want for Christmas is to be in the sky with a bunch of strangers.

life during wartime

I got some groceries, some peanut butter to last a couple of days

winging my way home: epic journey part 1

Before I start this story, you should know that I'm a very calm traveler. I love flying, and I am generally unfazed by most things. I've been flying internationally since I was six weeks old, and by myself since I was 16. So the idea of flying back from Glasgow > London > Boston seemed like a non-issue to me.

Basically, I have a method of flying - "don't sleep until you get there" - that usually goes pretty well, especially when your flight leaves at 6:30 in the morning on a Saturday. So I was planning on starting Operation No Sleep Till Boston on Thursday morning at 8:30 in the morning and arrive in Boston at 1 pm on Saturday, and then stay up for a while after that to get back on the right time zone. This usually works beautifully, as it's easy to get coffee on airplanes. AND SO IT BEGINS...

(this was written in real-time as things are happening across my diary, my computer, and one sheet of paper, and will be updated accordingly until we get to part 2)

3:38 am hello glasgow airport! No, i totally don't mind standing around for an hour and a half before my check-in opens. And here I thought I needed to be here 2 hours before my flight leaves for security check-ins, traveling internationally and all of that

4:30 am I don't think people in the UK/Europe travel with computers ever. This country doesn't seem concerned with wifi access under any circumstances - there's never wifi anywhere ever.

5:40 am real things said behind me in the security line: "oh, i need another wee box." Scotland, I am going to miss you.

6:00 am BE AT YOUR GATE NOW! also your flight leaves at 6:30 am but, you know, no rush. Take your time.

9:11 am I have been awake for about 24 hrs now! Well, except for the 20 minutes i fell asleep on the plane from Glasgow to London, but that doesn't count… I'm just saying that if you are a 6:30 am flight you should probably be legally (if not morally!) required to offer free coffee on the flight. It was snowing in London when I arrived - I'm convinced that London is an entirely different planet unto itself, and there's no way that London and Glasgow are part of the same country (but maybe that's because i can understand everyone without difficulty…) My next flight leaves at 10:30 and we don't have a gate yet, so for now I'm just hanging out in heathrow's MEGATERMINAL.


10:25 am my seat companion is another American studying at Edinburgh University. This is going to be a good flight.

11:30 am AND THEN WE WAITED FOR SOMEONE TO DE-ICE US, because we were informed that heathrow had effectively closed, except for planes trying to land and us trying to leave

1:30pm AND THEN THAT FLIGHT WAS CANCELLED. Everybody get off the plane! We'll give you vouchers! Never mind the fact that we've just sat on there on the tarmac for 3 hours, it's almost like we went somewhere!

Somewhere between 2pm and 4pm: It's so close to being like we went somewhere that we get to go through customs AGAIN! awesome! Go get your baggage, you've arrived! (Oh look, my duffel bag is shredded… super. let's get that fixed.) OH HEY GIANT QUEUES HOW ARE YOU


4:00 PM: Dispatches from AA #1: "We're totally going to rebook you starting at 4pm" JK GUYS, we really meant 6 pm

6:00 PM Dispatches from AA #2: "What vouchers are you talking about? No, we don't have those. Well, we've closed for the day, you could try calling this number but you'll be on hold for ages, it'll be great! Or stick around for 5:30 tomorrow morning, we'll be rebooking then

6:15 PM Dispatches from AA #3 "OH WAIT, ALL AMERICAN AIRLINES FLIGHTS FROM LONDON ARE BOOKED FOREVER jk everyone, there's no going anywhere ever. But if you stick around you might be able to fly as a standby in a week and a half!"

6:16 PM: I JUST WANT TO LEAVE THIS CONTINENT AND GO BACK TO MINE. IS THAT TOO MUCH TO ASK.

(intermittent panicked phone calls home between 3:30pm-9:30 pm)

8pm: Dad & Heather: OK! we've sorted most of this out! You've got yourself a flight going from London > Paris > Boston on the 21st, plenty of time for this to all calm down. You've got a hotel so you don't have to stay in the airport for the next three days. Time to figure out how to get to there!

8:30 PM LET'S CLOSE HEATHROW WHAT A GREAT IDEA NOW THAT THERE ARE NO TRAINS RUNNING EITHER GOOD LUCK YOUNG GRASSHOPPERS

9:30pm how do I get a taxi in this city!? Can i flag it down? does it work asdfghjkl

10:30pm in Windsor, where the queen apparently hangs out. Hi queenie!

11:30pm This is the current state of me & my luggage


11:45 pm Realizing that I am going to have to open my luggage in the morning and figure out what to do with my shredded bag. But at least I have my luggage.

11:46 pm SLEEPING for the first time since 8:30 Thursday morning

10 am the feeling of eating something that is not a candy bar for the first time in 1.5 days

11 am Hoarding little packets of Nutella. Maybe this won't be so bad after all


11:34 am the feeling of putting on a different set of clothes

12:45 pm well, at least I'm near stuff and not in the middle of nowhere like I thought I was. Time to buy a new suitcase...

2:30 pm SOHUNGRY what am i going to eat here without going broke? Oranges. Lots of oranges.

3:30 pm But I mean, I have internet access and british tv, so I think I'll be okay. And if there are trains running I might be able to see some touristy things while I'm here. There are definitely worse places to be stuck in...

4:44 pm I am watching something about the muppets and airports. I don't know what this is but it is both a) relevant and b) hilarious. british tv is so strange.

7:40 pm took myself out for dinner & watched the news. you guys, i'd just like to remind you that all of this airplane fuss/heathrow hell situation is over LESS THAN SIX INCHES OF SNOW

10:03 am I AM ALMOST MISSING BREAKFAST oh shiiiiiiiii-

12:00 pm (Central) London calling! 12 pound all-day, all inclusive rail pass FTW

1:10 pm LONDON YOU ARE MASSIVE, how is it possible that I am still in the same city and just arriving in Central London

1:40 pm oh hai ORIGINAL BEOWULF MANUSCRIPT HOW ARE YOU TODAY. this exhibit is amazing, you guys. Also, this was my #1 priority.

3:30 pm I am halfway through seeing all the touristy things in less than 6 hours. (The last time I was in London it was for 12 hours.) I'm really good at this, but I can't stop in anywhere, really, NO TIME.

4:40pm how is it this hard to find a pub in London? It shouldn't be. A Sherlock Holmes pub on Baker St? Yeah, okay.

6:40 pm Hm, I wonder how the trains are doing- I should go back to Paddington Station. I still have to get home... Oh, look, delays... predictable. This train to OXFORD will get me back...

8:15 pm I'm gearing up for another 2.5 days of transit, better go get some food, thank god Waitrose is open. Candy bars, pita bread, and stolen cereal & nutella packets - that should keep me going for a while

8:45 pm MY FLIGHT TOMORROW FROM LONDON TO PARIS HAS BEEN CANCELLED, but it looks like my flight from paris to boston is still on asdfghjk

9pm can I get a train to Paris? No. Everything's booked forever, because we are all trying to get somewhere through any means possible

9:45 pm OKAY THIRD TIME'S A CHARM RIGHT? at least I don't have to be anywhere for christmas specifically. London > NYC, here I come, on Christmas day!

i'm coming home again

Can you believe it's almost Christmas? Christmas here is a big, huge deal - they take it really seriously. It's like Thanksgiving and Christmas rolled into one mega-holiday, complete with turkey, stuffing and cranberry sauce. (Hmm... where were you a few weeks ago!) Everything about it is very serious and fairly traditional. We even have what I have been told is a German-style Christmas market near my flat. If I ever felt marginalized for being Jewish in the States (read: not celebrating christmas) I would probably be very unhappy here, as 'not celebrating christmas' is not an option. GLASGOW LOVES CHRISTMAS AND YOU DO TOO. Everyone has Christmas parties for every sort of group possible - so far I have attended six parties, no joke - two different department ones (Glasgow Uni's and Strathclyde's) and two for the reading groups I attend (Socioling and Corpus Ling), and two friends' Christmases. It's definitely been a traditional (UK) Christmas, complete with mince pies, which to my surprise do not have meat in them ("mince" also means "ground beef" here) and lots of mulled wine. It has all been very exciting - I've never celebrated Christmas before, and certainly not like this.

But Almost-Christmas means I've been here for a little over three months. I am one-quarter finished with my master's degree, which is a bit daunting! I'm starting to work on a PhD project next... Almost Christmas also means I am coming home for a bit soon. Meanwhile, I apologize for not having written much in here lately other than to complain about being cold all the time -- I've been trying to get a lot of work done so i can take a few weeks off and relax while I'm in the states.

My first flight back leaves at 6:30 AM on Saturday. I think I am going to live-record my travels again (See september for the original ones), so you all have something to look forward to when I am fairly jetlagged. See you all soon!

And I never love England more than when covered in snow

Strathclyde is on a mega death hill - a fairly steep one. (I don't know who thought that was a good idea.) All of this snow - all six inches of it - is making everyone nervous, so I have a snow day today. I can kind of see why they're worried about people falling and dying on the hills. Glasgow Uni is at least flat.

But I have things to do - I'm trying to get as much done as possible before I go home for three weeks. Also, I refuse to take a snow day for less than a foot of snow. So I'm headed here this morning:
Does this make me a New England Weather Snob? You bet.

BEER

Today we are going to talk about beer! Because everyone loves beer. And it's what we drink when we're not drinking tea here.

Scottish culture pretty much revolves around pubs. It's a very egalitarian situation - you alternate buying the drinks with whoever is keeping pace with you - and the Scots can drink. I feel like my 4 years of undergrad were training for UK drinking - I am now confident in my ability to drink from 4pm until 11 pm, having eaten lunch at 12:30, with dinner at 8pm (this is not uncommon) AND NOT SAY OR DO ANYTHING STUPID.

So! Beer!

Unsurprisingly, not many American beers make it over here. And if they are here, either a) they're usually pretty good American beers or b) you're in a nice pub. Sierra Nevada is pretty popular, and I've seen a couple places that had Sam Adams and Brooklyn Lager (I was excited). That said, you can get a bottle of Budweiser in most places (Light beer doesn't exist here, so Bud Light is out of the question.) You can also sometimes get Miller Genuine Draft, and then laugh about it because you know it's shit! Last week I had both Miller and Corona, because they were The Cheap Beer Special. We should probably start being embarrassed about anything that you can buy in a 30 rack. Blue Moon is starting to trickle over here, which is hilarious, however - I keep seeing it as a "specialty bottled beer".

The cheapest of the cheap beers here are infinitely better than American cheap beers. The big one here is Tennants, which is made in Glasgow. Tennants is sort of like Budweiser in that nobody actually likes it, but everyone will drink it. Stella and Peroni are both pretty popular, though I have no idea why- one is infinitely worse than the other (hint: Peroni > Stella.) Other cheap beers include Belhaven, Grolsh, Heineken, Kronenbourg, and Budweiser Budvar (which I assure you is different than Budweiser.) Guinness isn't always cheap, but it's easy to get. And, of course, every country needs their hipster beer. We don't have PBR here (but everyone who has been to the states LOVES pbr, it's hilarious); hipster beer here is Red Stripe. These are all pretty cheap, they're about £2 or £3 at a pub. You can get most of these - except for Red Stripe, you need to be able to identify your hipsters - on tap. Tennants and Belhaven are on tap at every single pub ever, and most places will have one or two others on tap too.

The UK also has cider, which is amazing. Well, we have it in the states, but not in the same way. Basically: you can buy a two-liter of alcohol that tastes like apples for about £2.50 at almost any store that sells alcohol, and it will fuck you up. It also comes on tap, in bottles and in cans. There's a couple major brands: Strongbow and Bulmer's are the two big ones, and then there are some smaller breweries around (Addleston's is good and I think the main local one). A good rule for cider is "the cloudier it is the more you will get fucked up". I really like cider but that's a slippery slope to go down sometimes!

There are some really good local brews too - Deuchar's IPA is made in Caledonia, and it's amazing. I don't usually like IPAs and this is fantastic. Alloa is made in some place called Clackmannanshire, they've got a great beer called Good Times ("Hiya, can I get two Good Times?" sounds ridiculous, but it's delicious) and they make porter called Midnight Sun which is very good too. Caley is heavy; I'm not a big fan but maybe you are. There's a whole group of ales called Heather Ales, which are fantastic, but again not if you're going to be drinking them for a long time.

I happen to really like Hefenweizens, which are German wheat beers - we're close to Germany, so those are easy to come by; naturally I am very pleased. I've had a couple of real German Hefenweizens, and they were lovely, but alas I cannot spell them (I can barely pronounce them).

meeting people is easy

It would be presumptuous to say that I was a popular person at home. I certainly knew many people, though. If I wanted to do something, there would almost always be someone around. Also, I don't know how to talk about Having Friends without feeling like I'm six years old, but here we go.

If I were to move almost anywhere within the continental US, I am fairly certain that I would know someone (or know a friend-of-a-friend) who lived there too. And if I didn't, the time zone isn't different enough that I wouldn't be able to keep in touch with everyone. It's not like moving a seven-hour plane ride away! I don't like to keep harping on this point, but going from knowing a ton of people on one continent and then moving to a new continent where you don't know a soul is, quite frankly, a terrifying prospect. You have to go out and meet people, and you have to make friends all over again. And it's stressful! You have to remember to call them or text them and invite them to do things and try not to feel like you're bothering them. I spent a lot of time doing things that interested me, like going to art galleries and gigs and such, hoping that I would meet people who also liked these things. Unfortunately some of the things I'm into are not the most accessible things to invite someone to - "hey, do you want to come with me to a minimalist composer's concert?"

The international society has a weekly pub night, where we all converge on a pub and socialize, so of course I go to that - I now have a pretty solid group of international-student-friends who go every week (mostly Germans, they're a lot of fun) and I think I am friends with most of the people in my office (although I feel like I probably come off as a tool most of the time, to be honest; there's a handful of MRes students though, and we all hang out together as The Newbies). Everyone in the office is really nice and we all get along really well - it's a good group of people.

And then a really strange small-world twist of fate, I ran into a girl whom i had had been introduced to briefly once at a gig a few weeks ago - it turns out she is my advisor's wife's student over at Glasgow university, studying sociolinguistics. She runs something called Lock Up Your Daughters, which is a magazine & monthly club night - I met her girlfriend and bunch of her friends and they've been great. (Though I am definitely comfortable with my international friends and my office friends, I did need some gay friends. Sometimes international groups of people are not the best places to be out, loud & proud, you know? I live near a whole bunch of gay clubs but would never go to them alone, and I'd feel weird asking a straight person to come with me.) But yeah - I've been hanging out with the LUYD crew and getting involved in that, which has been fun; they're exactly the sort of liberalminded queermos I was looking for when I first arrived.

So there's that! YOU GUYS I HAVE FRIENDS.

(On a mostly unrelated sidenote, this is how I am apparently going to a party on Tuesday for the BBC tv show Lip Service, which is like The L Word but set in Glasgow. It's pretty terrible- seriously, check it out. LUYD has been asked to be there to do a DJ set, as they are a "staple of Glasgow's lesbian scene"... I'm starting to get involved with promotional stuff like flyering, so I'm apparently going with them. You guys, these are my friends!)

Get off the Internet! I'll meet you in the street (ii)

So I bet you are all waiting with bated breath to find out if I was severely accosted, etc this weekend. SPOILER ALERT: I was not. TAKE THAT 1997! (if you are confused, go back one post.)

Both of the girls I met were wonderful people and we're arranging a second meet up. Like, it's scary at first (how are we going to recognize each other IF WE HAVE NEVER SEEN EACH OTHER? Should we exchange phone numbers? You already have my real name. WHAT IF YOU KIDNAP & RAPE ME) but basically, meeting people from the internet is inherently awkward. How can it not be? You know their personality and things about them, and you obviously have things in common, but a lot of it was really first-date-like. So what do you do? How long have you been in Glasgow for? TELL ME ABOUT YOURSELF. Except you don't need to do all the awkward subtleties of trying to impress the other party because you effectively already know each other. It's really strange, but cool to put a face to the name.

But you know what, it was a lot of fun. I'm looking forward to seeing them again. And, If anything, I keep getting better and better at introducing myself to people over the span of ~1hr. (Frequently I meet with people for about an hour or so via Grad School Networking - tomorrow I am meeting a girl from Glasgow Uni's Gaelic & Celtic languages department for coffee; we're doing some similar research.) Can I put this under "communicates effectively" on my resume?

Get off the Internet! I'll meet you in the street

Do you guys remember how, way back in 1998, it was determined that if you used your real name on the internet or you gave out your email address to strangers, someone would TRACK YOU DOWN AND RAPE YOU?

Only 12 years later I am using my real name on the internet with much consistency - between my column (now mostly defunct), my twitter account and my email address (yes that is almost my full legal name!)

This weekend I am meeting people from the internet! In real life! I need to back up a little bit.

I read a website called Autostraddle, which you should check out if you like a lot of the same things I do. Anyway, they ran an article about meeting other lgbtq girls, which rapidly became a Meet Other Autostraddle Readers sort of situation. (I followed their advice and saw JD Samson of Le Tigre fame play a show last night with her new band MEN, and met some gays there. So far so good! Also can we pause to discuss how I was sharing airspace with JD Samson.


...


continuing on, now.)

This was great and actually kind of beautifully timed. I've been here long enough that I'm ready to start feeling comfortable Being A Gay Here, but I have to find them first. (My American gaydar keeps getting thrown off by straight men who are clearly rocking some gender ambiguous alternative lifestyle haircuts, sunglasses, and tight pants.) Even though this is obviously a pretty queer city, I'm not quite ready to go myself to a gay bar. I live near a whole bunch of them, but they're kind of intimidating and mostly full of gay men. I'm brave but not that brave!

But I am e-brave, and it would be awesome to have some gay friends who clearly are intelligent/interesting. And besides, people meet on the internet all the time, through online dating sites, Craigslist, "tweet ups" and other such things. So I added my email address, saying that I had just moved here and don't know any gays ... and got a few emails from some other Autostraddle readers in Scotland - a few in Glasgow and one in Edinburgh, all of whom were very friendly people!

And so today I am meeting one person for coffee and another one on Sunday for brunch/coffee. 2010 YOU GUYS. The Internet is truly a magical place - between email, facebook, skype, twitter, blogs etc etc etc it is bringing us all closer together.

but if you never hear back from me again i was probably violently kidnapped & raped via 1997. So we still run that risk, but it's a risk I'm willing to take.

Help, I'm Alive!: A One-Month Retrospective

[editor's note: Two years ago in late July, I was in Edinburgh, Scotland for a weekend, with food poisoning. Today I am back there on a hike with some Germans, hopefully without food poisoning. Through the magic of the internet and auto-posting, I present the following.]

You guys, I have been in Glasgow for a month! I can't believe it's been a month already. Things are going so, so well - this blog has sort of shown the ups and downs of the first few weeks of moving to a new country by myself, but I definitely feel like each day is better than the last. There's a lot of things that I am still working out - like what side of the street and which side of the stairs to walk on. (This is more complicated than you'd expect.) Sometimes I still have difficulties figuring out where I would go to buy things - we don't have Wal-Mart or Target or CVS here - but this is getting better. Some days I wake up and just really want to see something instantly recognizably American, like peanut butter and jelly or the word "eggplant", and some days I want be able to talk to someone from home and not have to wait for 7pm to be able to do so. But moving to a new place by yourself is an emotional rollercoaster, let alone a new country or a new continent! I think I am doing very well. I have tentative friends! It's all very exciting.

It's an amazing opportunity to be here, and even more of an amazing opportunity to be working with the man who invented my field in addition to meeting all these other important linguists and literary people across three institutions (Strathclyde, Glasgow University, the University of Edinburgh). I am very, very lucky. There's no second-guessing crossing an ocean to do something and the more I am getting into what I am actually doing the more I am absolutely certain this is was absolutely 100% the right choice for me. I love all the work I am doing, and the people around me are so passionate about their work, so deeply involved that I can't imagine them doing anything else. I've been in contact with all these important linguistics people - the other day I met the woman who headed the Historical Thesaurus of the Oxford English Dictionary. (No big deal or anything...only one of my life goals achieved! She was so interested in what I had done and what I am doing here.) Glasgow Uni and Strathclyde are already both aggressively courting me for their PhD program next year; I just want to tell them to cool off a little bit!

I can't believe this is my life. I am so, so lucky.

I definitely still feel like I have a giant American flag tattooed on my forehead, but with every day I feel more integrated into Scottish life. Maybe soon I will start talking with a Scottish accent. (Or at least write a blog post about it, as I keep meaning to.) Or maybe that will just have to wait for month two...

through the roof n underground

This is the the Glasgow Underground, affectionately nicknamed The Clockwork Orange, as it goes in a circle every 8 minutes. It is wildly efficient, and it has the added bonus of BEING IMPOSSIBLE TO MESS UP BECAUSE IT IS A CIRCLE.

As a non-city person I was nervous about having to learn a whole new train cycle. I get the T in Boston, it's easy enough, but it took me a long time to figure out. I am not very...directionally oriented, you could say; I get lost while driving around my hometown. As you can imagine the idea of learning a new train schedule and which train goes where and how long it will take was incredibly daunting.

When I first arrived I was told that I would be going to Glasgow University sometimes and I would have to take the underground, and I sort of nodded and said "Yes", hoping that it wouldn't be anything complicated. You can imagine how happy I was when I looked at the following map:

I only have to go a few stops in one direction - from Buchanan St to Hillhead. Going back is just as easy! I sort of alternate my time between Strathclyde and Glasgow Uni, so I'm getting more and more comfortable with it. (Glasgow is a walking city - you could definitely walk from one end to the other in under an hour - but the underground is much more efficient sometimes.)

What is hard about the underground, however, is not knowing the etiquette for riding the trains. Do I make eye contact or should I study my shoes? Should I smile at the cute girl who just got on? I know in France, you would never make eye contact on the metro, but in Boston it's kind of okay. Usually I just sort of read the newspaper over the shoulder of whoever is next to me.

Stranger in a Strange Land

Before I left for Scotland, everyone was telling me how very brave they thought I was - going so far away to a place I had never been, without knowing anybody there. And I appreciated that, but I never really thought of myself as being brave. I was doing what I had to do - the guy who essentially invented what I do is here, there's a lot of linguistics stuff happening here (sometime in the next few weeks I am meeting with someone who is working on the Oxford English Thesaurus!). It just made sense to come to Glasgow.

It turns out it was a brave thing to do.

I've been here a little over a week and things are going really well. Don't get me wrong - it's terrifying to be in a new city, let alone a new country by yourself! There are good days and bad days, good hours and bad hours, but it's really about little victories. I rode the tube by myself to go somewhere new and I didn't get lost! I went to the pub by myself and read some newspapers for a couple of hours. I asked someone to lunch and we talked for a while. I just got back from meeting another grad student who is also an American - we met up with a couple of her friends from her church, who were amazing and helpful and very kind.

Luckily everyone speaks English and everyone is very friendly. (This is the friendliest city I've ever been in!). The other students in my program are very nice and very helpful but I'm trying to not depend on them for everything, you know? I send them emails asking what I should do on a weekend, and they were all great, giving me some pubs to check out, and suggestions for theatres to go to.

But, it's hard when you don't know anybody. How do you make friends in a city? I'm trying to push my boundaries a little bit, be open to anything, and attend anything I am invited to. Do you have any ideas, dear readers?

send you off on a big adventure, Xs lead you to the treasure

HI FROM TARTANVILLE
actually, no, HI FROM STARBUCKS
you read that right! STARBUCKS. I am trying really hard to not be an obnoxious American, but I can't help it if the only places to get wifi are Starbucks. There are a bunch of them around here. I don't really get it, coffee's not a big thing here, but there are a lot of Starbucks.

Basically, I don't have the ability to load websites until I register as a Strathclyde student, and I don't want to register as a student until I've actually figured out a course of action (am I taking classes? yes? no? I'm still not sure), this way I can avoid fixing any mistakes I might make. And, like, I have all week to do it. Somehow I have email, Skype, and AIM access from my flat. (get at me.)

I'm still getting settled, but my apartment is nice. It's small, very purple, but it's nice. I have three roommates (we all have our own rooms) but only two of them are here so far. One is from England and the other is from Ireland (& I'm an american). We're betting that our next roommate will be Scottish, if she ever shows up. It came with more stuff than I had anticipated, like a pile of cleaning supplies. However, there are some weird things about it - we have to turn on the hot water before we can use it. So, someone has to wake up at least 30 min ahead of whenever they want to take a not-freezing shower. We've been informed that in the winter we might need to do this an hour ahead of time. I  think the idea is that we will save energy (how green of us) and $$$ -- we pay for energy usage - by not heating the water all the time.

As for living in the city, it's going well. I'm decidedly not a "city person" - I like suburbia; it doesn't bother me to have to drive 20 minutes anywhere. It's kind of nice in it's own little boring way. (I went to university in a place that was possibly more boring than my hometown.) I live in a very nice part of the city, close to the major shopping streets. Apparently Glasgow has the best shopping in the UK outside of London. I still have some trouble crossing the street, though (which way am i supposed to look? OH GOD A CAR); usually I just wait until someone else shows up and move when they do. You walk on the opposite side of the street too (this is more complicated), and I have no idea what to do when I get to a staircase - which way do I go?

I live in a really gay part of the city - they weren't kidding about that! - my neighborhood (is it a neighborhood?) is covered in rainbow flags. (A sign on the hairdressers' next to me says "gays, straights, bisexuals, no problems here; it's bald people we have trouble with"). My street has a lot of indian restaurants and I am across the street from the BBC symphony hall. I'm not far away from campus, either, which is nice too.

This week I am meeting a lot of the other postgraduates for dinner/drinks/coffee. They have all been very friendly! I'm looking forward to meeting them.

I haven't gotten a chance to walk around and take pictures yet. I will do this soon, I promise! Here is a picture of my key to the laundry room. Yup.

ágætis byrjun: a good beginning

Things are going well so far! Tomorrow I move into my apartment, wherein i will finally be meeting The Mystery Roommates, but then I will be without internet for a few days until I register as a person at Strathclyde.

I met one of my advisers and his wife - they are very, very nice. I was effectively wined & dined by them, and then proceeded to be invited to EVERYTHING EVER with them. At the very earliest, I already have standing plans to go to a wine tasting in October. In the meantime, I'm setting up meetings with other postgraduates in the department, so my first week will be full of meeting other people, which is exciting. I'll also be attending a department start-of-semester party, so I will hopefully know some people by the end of next week.

We've done a ton of shopping today. There's a lot of really nice shops around here; apparently Glasgow has some of the best shopping outside of London. I have a cell phone now, which makes me about 50% of a real person in the UK. However, the best part of today was taking a 15 minute walk away from our hotel, nearly out of the city, to go a Staples. Carriages! Recognizably American things! It was exciting. Glasgow's a beautiful city with lots to do, full of art and culture, but maybe I miss America a little bit. It's weird - it still kind of feels like I'm just on vacation here.

(However, American TV has nothing on British TV. Presently every channel seems to be playing Friends, but previously we watched a report on a sheep that had broken into someone's house and "gone on a rampage", a very thorough analysis of Zac Efron's beard, and then more things about the Pope, who apparently is here as well.)

for security reasons, all unattended bags will be collected and destroyed

GREETINGS FROM GLASGOW, everyone!

I am in a hotel in glasgow city center with Mom. I was freaking out a little bit when we were about to leave Logan, which I think is understandable, but our flights are fine, we are safe, etc.

I originally wanted to sort of live-blog this journey (or be like, a Travel Writer, but I don't know how to make things interesting) but limited wifi access without paying ~$20 for wifi at Heathrow would have made this difficult. Also, there is no wifi in the sky.



8:30 PM EST, Logan Airport. LOOK WE ARE EXCITED TO START THIS JOURNEY

2:30 AM EST, On The Airplane
I don't sleep on airplanes -- instead I am watching Late-Night-Transatlantic-TV-Programming. So far I have seen the end of a Queen Latifah movie which severely lacks a discernable plot - though I might have missed it when i went back to reading my book - and I have just watched a game show of some sort where two children are given towels to throw wiffle balls into inflatable water ring in a studio. at 3:30 AM they start showing The Office (American). NOTHING ABOUT THIS MAKES SENSE.


10:05 AM GMT (5:05 AM EST), Heathrow Airport
we have been awake since yesterday morning including a 6-hr flight + 5 hrs of time zone changes

13:35 PM GMT our plane from Heathrow to Glasgow has been delayed. we were supposed to be on it right now. We do not have a departure time for the next hour.

13:40 PM GMT THE POPE IS ON TV. Apparently he is here too. Mom claims that his car is called the Popemobile. I doubt this.

14:00 PM GMT WE ARE BOARDING THIS PLANE... in 20 minutes. At least we have a gate for departure now. GLASGOW HO!

14:45 ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzcoffee!

15:30 GLASGOW! Hello! You are pretty!


16:15 Check in to hotel. How do we make the light switches work? We have been awake for nearly two days now. (spoiler: we figured it out.)


LATER TONIGHT I am meeting the English Department! And maybe sleeping again! I would like this very much.

i don't pretend to know how time zones work, so you will just have to bear with me for a bit while I figure out how to change all my accounts.

leaving on a jet plane

I've been flying on planes since I was a baby. I really love flying; it makes me feel really safe. I realize I am probably in the minority of people who feel this way. I guess I really just love condensed spaces. I love airports, too; I love sitting at a gate watching the planes come and go. The whole experience is just really comforting to me.

I have flown a lot of times in my life, often internationally (to Canada, mind you, which is in fact a different country, though I assure you this only a mere technicality).

Tonight I am getting on a plane that will take me to London. Tomorrow morning I am getting on a second plane to Glasgow.
I do not know anybody in Scotland.
I am in the program that I have been dreaming about for years.
This is really happening. I am really doing this. I am so nervous and excited.

(I should warn you that I will probably not have internet access for a few days, and I am going to be super busy in the first week or so. However, I will be back on here as soon as possible.)

Not A Packing List: How To Compress Your Life Into Airport-Friendly Containers

As you read this, I am waist-deep in packing. I am terrible at packing - I save it all for the very last second, putting everything into random boxes without rhyme or reason, "to be sorted later"... and then "later" happens. It's kind of like unpacking and packing simultaneously. Luckily, I am not bringing a lot of things with me. Remember what you brought to your college apartment? Condense it to the bare minimum of things you need to survive without having to start 100% anew. (We are aiming for 75% anew.) Some of it simply isn't allowed on airplanes!

It comes down to this: I have a lot of objects. I bet you do too. The last time you moved, did you keep finding things that were yours that you can't get rid of it because you need it? These are the things that are so familiar that they are almost like breathing. They're on every back-to-school shopping list, crammed into every car moving back to campus.

Okay. Take all those things, put them in boxes, and put them aside. You are packing for an intercontinental journey which is going to last for at least 3 years!

There are lots of guides on the internet about how to pack for a 2-4 day business trip, a two-week-long vacation, and even some guides about how to pack for a semester abroad. Sadly, there are not guides to Packing For The Rest Of Your Life In A New Country. This would be very helpful. I do not have a host family; I am renting a room in a flat owned by the university. (Thankfully, this strange cultural thing of having graduate students be as on-campus as possible saves me the stress of finding my own apartment from many miles away.)


I am moving to Scotland with a suitcase, a duffel bag, and a backpack or two.

Here is a list of (some of!) the things that are NOT coming with me.

> cookware (pots/pans, measuring cups, mixing bowls, basic cooking tools)
> dinnerware (plates/bowls/utensils)
> drinkware/glassware*
> toiletries** (shampoo, conditioner, lotion, soap, etc)
> paper printer paper, notebooks. (they also use a different size paper than we do in the states/canada. our standard paper is 8.5x11 inches, they use A4, which is 8.27x11.69 inches. i must assimilate.)
> printer
> coffee pot
> laundry detergent
> bedding (sheets, pillows, comforter, blankets, foam padding)
> cleaning supplies
> extra furniture (side tables, chairs, etc)
> lighting
> books (i shipped my Essential Linguistics Textbooks Collection to one of my professors last week. everything else must stay.)
> dvd collection region 1 vs region 2 encoding /takes up too much space (i am eternally thankful that the invention of ipods means that i am not leaving my music collection behind due to space constraints.)
> trashcan
> desk supplies
> decorative things (certainly not all of them are coming. a select few, perhaps, might be. if you have ever been in my room at school, you know it certainly was a busy space.)

So, basically, I am bringing a year's worth of clothes, my computer, and not much else.

*I might be able to cram a few of these things into my luggage.
**This is complicated, as the water in the UK is different - heavier, almost - than American water. Therefore American products do not always react the same way leaving you feeling greasy and gross. Nobody believes me when i say this; it's hard to explain. You're just going to have to take my word on it.

I am arriving to Scotland with two days to run around crazed, buying as many of these things as possible before moving into my apartment. Mum is coming with me to help me move in, because God knows I do not have the ability to handle all of the necessary restocking by myself in under two days. It will be a giant game of Collect All The Things.

left and leaving

This past weekend I was in New Hampshire for what is more than likely the last time, engaging in what I called Operation SEE ALL THE PEOPLE. It was like a choose-your-own adventure game, but featuring me. I would be in/on/around Planet UNH for about 56 consecutive hours (including sleeping) and everyone had the opportunity to make plans with me - I would do whatever they wanted me to do. While this might sound like a logistical disaster it actually worked out very well - I think I saw something like 30-40 people while I was around.

And everyone had such nice things to say! There were so many nice words of affirmation and love and encouragement from so many people - people who i seriously respect were telling me that I am inspiring and motivated and intelligent and Going To Do Great Things.

It was strange to be in a place where I was essentially outmoded - the freshmen are tiny babies and I felt too old and out of place. (A friend put it well when she said "if you had been here for another year you would hate it. you've maximized the university at this point.") While I'm really nervous about meeting my new department on Thursday - they are all going to be smarter than me! - I am super excited about the classes that I'm taking and what I will be doing. I know that I am definitely making the right decision. There's no second guessing getting on a plane.

jigsaw falling into place

As we get closer to Departure Day, I am finding out more things. It is exciting! I stopped counting each Day In The States because it stresses me out to think about. (I do know I am leaving a week from today, Wednesday the 15th. I am measuring my life in Wednesdays, much like how J. Alfred Prufrock measures his life in coffee spoons.)

Until about a week or so ago, I wasn't sure if I would be taking classes. This shouldn't have been this vague, but it was. Strathclyde does not offer a Masters in Literary Linguistics, but they do offer a PhD, and I need a Masters degree to be in a PhD program. (I believe I am a PhD-track student, but I'm not 100% sure. It's complicated, as you can see.) Way back in November 2009, which by the way feels like a lifetime ago now, I wrote up a research proposal for my application as a research ("PhD") student. Because I was not applying for a taught program - where there would be a set course structure - but rather a research program, it was unclear exactly what my first year would look like.

It looks like I will be taking two classes at Strathclyde -- one which is relevant to my research (!) and another which is a Postgraduate Research Skills Seminar of some sort. Additionally, I might be either taking or auditing classes at Glasgow University, which is our "sister school". (I am of the understanding that at Strathclyde I am in an English Department that focuses on linguistics, and Glasgow University has a linguistics department that focuses on English.)

It turns out that the day we arrive (Sept 16) is a book launch party for one of the creative writing professors. That night the English Department is having a party, which I will be attending, jetlagged and disoriented. Here I will be meeting the other postgraduates and my future professors for the first time, which will undoubtedly prove interesting.

Today I am wrapping up my research project at Harvard and Wheaton, and I still have to figure out what I am doing with my column. This weekend I am headed to Planet UNH to see a lot of people in a very short period of time. This whole-leaving-the-country thing is getting real!